Monday, November 14, 2016

Silky Facial Oil


I tested this formulation for a LONG time before sharing it. Confession, a lot of the B&B products I make are one-offs. I make them, use them and enjoy them- but never make them again. This facial oil (and another product coming soon!) are the exceptions. I have been using this for a year and I love it.
It’s really easy to make, but it does require a few fancy ingredients that are regrettably purchased at two different online stores. Honestly, you could probably skip the last three extracts and spread their bulk over the other ingredients to reach 100%.I like extracts, and they make it feel more fancy. But I’m not sure they pack that much of a punch*. I’m fairly certain the top hitters are the top three ingredients all of which you can purchase from Lotioncrafter. Lotioncrafter has a bunch of really luxe extracts -I’ve got my eye on you Olive Leaf-, but they are water soluble, which would require an emulsifier and make this a lotion. I found my oil soluble extracts at Bramble Berry and The Herbarie.
A run down of the heavy hitters. First, olive squalane is where it’s at. You could just use this honestly. It’s magical! Sensolene is kind of like squalane’s overachieving sibling. It shares many of the same properties, but feels even silkier and makes my skin super soft. I like to add cyclomethicone because it’s great at spread-ability. It makes this oil smoother, lighter and drier. I personally love chia seed oil and Lotioncrafter does sell it. However there are plenty of subs for chia oil. Another specialty oil like Rosehip, Argan, Borage or Evening Primrose would work just as well.
Rosemary Oleoresin or ROE is used to protect against oxidation and retards rancidity of oils. Pretty much it can help your nice fresh oils stay nice and fresh longer. I don’t bother to use it in most formulations because they either get used up quick enough or don’t have that much oil in them. Since this product is straight oil and I use four drops a day, I thought it worth it. The amount used is so small, one drop is more than enough. Plus my scale doesn’t register down that far… .02-.05. You won't need a preservative in this formula because it contains no water.
I recommend you make a 20g batch of this. It seems like a tiny amount, but better to see if you like it before you use up all your pretty ingredients.

SILKY FACIAL OIL

18% Squalene
18% Sensolene
18% Cyclomethicone
18% Chia Seed Oil
10% Calendula extract
9% Carrot extract
9% Avocado extract
.02% ROE

SILKY FACIAL OIL 20g

3.6g Squalene
3.6g Sensolene
3.6g Cyclomethicone
3.6g Chia Seed Oil
2g Calendula extract
1.8g Carrot extract
1.8g Avocado extract
1 drop ROE

Ingredients gathered.

You’ll need a scale that goes down to .1 grams, a clean, dry glass vessel for mixing, and a stirring rod.

More fun, you’ll need a little bottle for your creation! I got this one ounce glass bottle at Whole Foods. It’s pretty, but more importantly it has a ribbed lid for easy gripping with wet hands.

Mix everything except the ROE together. If you are a little over or under it is ok.

I think it’s easier to add the ROE last (seems to mix better). Make sure you shake it up before using.

It’s a very thick solution. The usage rate is so low it wouldn’t register on my scale, even if we were making 100g of facial oil. Because of that, I just add one drop and call it good.

You can see how it doesn’t immediately disperse, due to the thickness.

Use your stir stick to mix it in.

Carefully pour the oil into your container. Something holding 1-2oz will work best if you are only making 20g. (1 ounce is about 30g).

I apply this facial oil in the morning. First face lotion, then four drops of this smoothed over everything but my forehead (bangs yo). I never have a problem applying makeup after and don’t feel greasy at all. I used this through the summer and winter and it works for all seasons.


*I really do think we often put too much emphasis on the fancy extracts or additives and not enough on the workhorses of the formation. Be a little cynical when you are looking at beauty products.The major glitzy ingredient meant to draw you in is probably at 1% or less.

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